Berlin: Reflecting on The Topographies of Terror

I recently had the pleasure of visiting Germany this past May, which may account for why I haven't posted on here for a few weeks. Like Chicago, Paris or New York, Berlin is a city unto itself, so I thought my first post since my return should focus on one aspect of Berlin's past. 

One man refuses to salute Hitler

I haven't traveled overseas since I was a kid. I did spend a lovely three-day weekend in Mexico City (on Cinco de Mayo, no less!), and also visited Quebec (the part of Canada where they speak French!), so I have used my passport before. But this... was a big one. 

So, why Germany? And of all cities, Berlin? The sexy tourist spots are typically elsewhere... Italy, Paris, or the the Mediterranean coast. Within Germany itself, most would pick Munich or a charming Castle-clad village in Bavaria that looks like a Renaissance festival. And, I might want to visit a place like that in the future too! 

But, while castles, mountains and beaches seamed nice, the Spy in me said Berlin... 

When you board an international flight to London or Paris, everyone knows you're just a tourist. When you say your destination is Berlin, people might think you're a spy, an important businessman, or both. 

Due to it's history, and location, in the flat river plains on northern Europe, Berlin is kind-of considered a typical "big city." It's not super stylish, and a-bit dreary and boring. 

Its a political and business center that was bombed-to-hell during World War Two, then walled-in by the Soviet Union during the cold war. 

Anyways... Most photographs of Berlin before 1991 make it look like it sucked. 

But, Berlin's history is what made me want to visit! 

To be honest, I didn't want to go on vacation and be sad about all of the terrible things humans have done to one another in the past. But, at the same time, I didn't want pass up the opportunity to reflect on important pieces of history as well. 

Our teachers and schools in Kent, Ohio did a remarkably good job in educating us youngsters about the The Holocaust: the systematic murder of more than 6 millions Jews, and thousands more ethnic minorities, disabled people, LGBTQ people, and political dissidents. We read the Diary of Anne Frank and learned about the terrors and injustices. 

I myself studied aspects of these events in graduate school, and honestly cried myself to sleep some nights after learning what had happened at the hands of the Nazi regime. So, I didn't really want to spend my vacation re-visiting such terrors. 

But, I did want to respect the history of Berlin and what happened. I figured I'd go to the Topography of Terrors exhibit to get the "Sad Part" over-with on my first full day in Berlin.   

The Topography of Terrors museum is in a unique location that really enhances the experience. It's indoor gallery is built atop the remains of the Nazi regime's SS headquarters, and outside is one of the only remaining sections of the Berlin Wall. Of course,"The Wall" is simply there for posterity, and you can walk right around it now, if you wish. 

This museum focuses on the everyday people who were swept up into Nazism, and ultimately betrayed their fellow humans by helping to commit the largest mass murder in history. SS officers, prison guards, executioners, and functionaries of Hitler are pictured and documented here... lest anyone forget that people just like you and I are capable of horrible things. 

A model of Berlin during the war

My most memorable encounter was seeing the model of Berlin during World War Two. Hitler and the Nazi's were in charge of Germany for a decade before war broke out and used the opportunity to completely rebuild Berlin into the capital city of a "Thousand Year Reich". I was standing right in the middle of what, before the war, would've been a fantastically modern city capital. Naturally, being the center of the Nazi Regime, this entire city center (similar to Washington DC's National Mall) was, bombed into oblivion, and will never be seen again. In the photo of the model above, the clear sections are buildings that were completely destroyed during the war, giving you an idea of the price Berlin paid for the crimes of the Nazi Reich. 

Something about that had an impact on me. This was once a campus of beautifully designed and planned public structures. Now, I am standing in a Museum that showcases how and why they were all destroyed. 

I was not far from the the "Führerbunker," the last hideout for Hitler and many more of his loyal followers, who, rather than walk up to the surface and face surrender to the Allies, shot themselves or ingested poison. 

Did they do that because they regretted what they did, or because they feared the punishment? Either way, it was a hard thing to think about.  

Perhaps the best photo I saw at the Topography of Terror was of one man who refused to salute Hitler.               

Contesting: The Competitive Side of HAM Radio

I finished my last ice hockey game of season in early April, but I didn't stop competing. This past weekend I participated in another competition, albeit a competition way different than ice hockey. I competed in the Florida QSO Party with my "team," the Portage County Amateur Radio Service (PCARS) from our club site in Ravenna, Ohio. The Florida QSO party is one of 50 state "Contests" that take place on weekends each year inviting any licensed amateur radio operators, and clubs like ours to compete and earn awards by contacting other stations, clubs and operators in certain locations during a period of time. 

Various award earned by PCARS

When I typically talk to people unfamiliar with HAM radio, I often focus on the practical aspects of the hobby. It teaches you all about waves, frequencies and signals, which we rely on constantly in our daily lives when we use radios, smartphones and WiFi. It could be necessary in an emergency, if cell service or power goes down -and PCARS does have volunteers who work for the county's Emergency Management Agency that train every two weeks for such an event. Amateur radio also allows a portion of the airwaves for amateurs to experiment with new wave forms, digital protocols, and communication technology that may help to drive innovation for the future. In fact, this is exactly why the Federal Communication Commission holds certain parts of the radio spectrum available for licensed amateurs like myself. But, what do we do with all this technology when there aren't any emergencies or communications problems that need to be solved? We have fun, of course! And, along with DX'ing, meeting new people from all over the world, and chatting with other HAM's in the local community, Contesting is a big part of that fun. 

So, what exactly is a Contest in terms of amateur radio? In the simplest terms, it's a competition to see who can contact the most individual radio operators and stations in a given time period. You use your radio to listen for other stations transmitting, or call out to request that other stations find you. Once you connect with someone, and they can hear you, you exchange some basic information, usually their call sign (the alpha numeric designation all licensed amateurs use to ID themselves over the air), their location and other details, such as a sequence number, a signal report or other pieces of information described in the rules of the Contest. Once you've got all the info you need from the other party, you'll write or type that information down, and submit it to the Contest officials after the competition is complete. The officials will then reconcile each submission to confirm that both parties made contact and gathered the correct info from one another to confirm a contact (or "QSO" as we often call it). Most of this is done digitally now, through SQL or other database software.

Award my team received for the Washington QSO Contest

Scoring depends on each individual Contest's rules. In most state "QSO parties" scoring is different for in-state contestants versus out-of-state contestants. In-state contestants may get points for both in-state and out-of-state contests, while out-of-state contestants may only get points for making contacts within the hosting state. For example, when competing in the Florida QSO party last weekend, my group from Ohio was only looking to call into Florida, as we wouldn't be awarded for making contacts elsewhere. This way, the state hosting the party is the focus of much of the radio activity that day. Additionally, extra points may be given for achieving certain goals like contacting someone from each county (or parish) in a state, or contacting one or more "special" stations, such as stations set-up in state parks, landmarks or points of interest. It's a bit like completing a "side quest" in a video game, or catching that "rare" Pokemon. 

Most Contests have different categories, so people with a wide range of interests can participate. Typically there are individual entries and group or team entries, but with those categories, different contestants can get awards in various categories, such as most VHF/UHF contacts, most CW (or Morse code) contacts, or most contacts on each HF band, etc. So there are usually a lot of ways to win or place, regardless of your interest. You can also uses contests to find new contacts on the radio, even if you aren't participating in the contest; as you can imagine, radio activity will increase in each state when they hold their contests, and this gives any amateur an opportunity to listen for and make contact with contest participants in a given location. 

When I first started in amateur radio, I did so because I wanted to learn about the technology, communicate with other countries and be prepared in case of an emergency. So, when I first joined PCARS, I was a little weary of "Contesting". I already played ice hockey, and the prospect of winning and losing was stressful enough. What if I sucked? I would be letting the whole team down! 

Images for our outdoor Parks-On-The-Air contest in January

Thankfully, PCARS and the amateur radio community at large are some of the nicest and most welcoming people you'll ever get to know. Just because it's a "Contest" and it's scored, doesn't mean it's stressful. Usually we simply stay on the radio only as long as we're comfortable. Some participants will work from their home rigs, and send in their contact sheet afterwards, and others will come to the club site and compete for a few hours each weekend as they have time. And each contest is a great opportunity to socialize, not only with the contacts you make on the air, but with other participants at your club or station. 

Good food is usually required as well. This past weekend, I not only got 5 contacts on the 20 meter band in the state of Florida, I also got two slices of pepperoni pizza, a Boston cream doughnut from Maggie's in Middlefield, Ohio, and all the Dr. Pepper I could drink! Not a bad way to spend a Saturday. 

Experimenting with Antennas: A Pursuit In Creativity

Testing my antenna using a NanoVNA analyzer

I'm writing this post now as a novice in radio. But, as I learn, I wanted to comment on how interesting it is to work with Antennas... you know, those big, strange looking structures on the tops of towers and buildings. Those dishes we use to get satellite TV (I loved having Direct TV), those fields of big disks we use to maybe talk to aliens, and those cute little feelers on the tops of ants' heads.

Again, I'm not an expert (yet), but antennas serve two functional purposes: 1.) to receive signals and 2.) to send them. A good example is my hearty, tried and true, UHF VHF antenna. It's designed to send radio messages in the very specific 2 meter and 75 centimeter range. In laymans' terms, it sends signals from my radio in all directions at roughly the same frequency as the FM radio in your car. So, just as if your were listening to an FM radio station based in Chicago, you could expect that the transmissions I put out will carry until you're about 60 to 75 miles away. So, If you're listening to classic rock in Chicago, and keep the same frequency during your journey, you'll like begin to hear static, NPR, sports radio or a charismatic Christian minister once you get about 60 miles out. Then, you need to re-tune in the local classic rock FM station. The same goes for my amateur UHF VHF antenna; anyone within about 60 miles can hear me clearly, when transmitting, at any time of day, but outside of that range I won't be heard. 

You've seen FM radio antennas just like mine before, they tend to be about 2 meter-high columns on top of a building or a tower of some sort. They're usually up high, because the farther above ground level they are, the better they receive and transmit.  

My UHF VHF (FM) antenna

However, antennas come in all different shapes and sizes for different needs. A concave disk is likely a receiving dish for a satellite in orbit around Earth (or beyond!). A short cylinder pointed horizontally is probably a microwave transmitter sending a signal on a linear path over land or sea in one direction. In an iPhone, the antenna is a simple metal node encased at the bottom of the phone near the charger. You can't even see it. 

When people typically think of HAM radio antennas, they think of the big towers that experienced, well financed, hobbyists have towering over their homes. I've called it the "tell tale" antenna, in that you can spot any serious ham by the big antenna on their house. However, as a new HAM radio operator, I've discovered that antennas are both much simpler, and at the same time, more complex than a big metal tower. 

My end-fed HF antenna

Take my simple end-fed, half-wave-length, wire antenna that I've been using on the 10 meter band for worldwide SSB phone and digital communication. It's literally just a 17-18 foot narrow copper wire hung on my house. The UHF VHF antenna, which took a lot of work, and looks impressive, is only good to transmit about 60-75 miles out -same as a typical FM radio station. But, the small wire hanging on my home's siding? If conditions are good, it can transmit to the entire world, New Zealand, Australia and Antarctica. (And there are people in Antarctica listening!) 

Below is a nice diagram of what a simple end-fed antenna looks like. To get the best reception, and resonance, you need to use some math to to calculate the length of your antenna. Because higher-frequency UHF VHF bands, like those used for FM, have relatively short wave-lengths, the antenna needs only to be one or two meters high. But for lower-frequency bands, such as 10 meter band I use for long range HF radio, you need a significantly longer antenna, like my 17-18 foot wire antenna used for around 28 Mhz. The reason why a lot of HAMs simply use wires is because they're portable. We can string them up when needed, and coil them back up for storage. 

Diagram of an end-fed antenna design

 

My home-made "dipole" wire antenna

When it comes to wire antennas, there are so many styles and variables to try. I'm currently having a lot of success with my end fed wire, which is also known as a "sloper" because usually it's hung diagonally, from a tree or structure, to improve upward propagation. But, since I'm limited in the space I can use at my house, I simply hung the wire vertically, and I get good results. Wire antennas can also be constructed different ways. For example, instead of an end-fed wire antenna which extends in one direction from your transmitter's feed line, you could use a "dipole" antenna which extends in two directions (poles) from a un:un or bal:un (or balancing coil), in the middle. This antenna design may improve propagation in multiple directions, and may also be more convenient for spacing, since the feed line is in the center. I'm currently working on a wire dipole antenna of my own with a store-bought un:un, but in the future I should be able to build an un:un or bal:un of my own, which is basically a wire coiled around a ferrite or iron tube; It's called a toroid. It balances the RF signal from the unbalanced feed line, so that the two poles of the radiating antenna are resonant, and RF energy does not feed back into the radio, which can not only impact the quality of your transmission, but also damage the radio.

A photo of a dipole wire antenna in the field

The big difference in the more substantial UHF VHF antenna, and the MacGuyer'd wire HF antenna, is that the UHF VHF, or FM, antenna can send messages about 60 to 75 miles out at any time of day, all-year-round, regardless of weather conditions. It's more reliable, and this is why FM is still the preferred broadcasting medium for radio. If the Solar Cycle shifts, you still get to hear Tom Sawyer by Rush (one of my favorites!). While it may not transmit far, you have steady reliability in a given range. Compare that with HF radio between 3 and 30 Mhz. Yes, with a simple wire hung on my house I can contact the world, but only at certain times given the atmospheric conditions. At other times my crappy little wire is unreliable. 

The insulator on my HF antenna

Take the 10 meter HF band for example. This range of frequencies propagates very well off any length of wire, if tuned appropriately. There's no need to install a dish or expensive antenna, and heck! you don't even need to get on a rooftop. Hang the wire anywhere, and you'll be able to receive and transmit signals. The catch is that the 10 meter band is only available during the daylight hours given certain conditions. 10 meter transmissions rely on the subatomic particles in the Ionosphere. During the day they create a "mirror" which reflects, and bounces, signals across the atmosphere. It only works during the day, when the sun is shining. At night, the band is not reliable, and signals from my antenna go off into the atmosphere, and right up into space to never be heard. 

We need the sun, and it's subatomic particles to transmit on 10 meters. At night, there is no sun, and no propagation. In fact, in the low portion of the Solar Cycle, it may not even be possible to transmit during the daytime as there is not enough Solar radiation to accommodate the 10 meter signal.

In short, a "bigger" antenna never really means a "better" signal. It all comes down to numerous variables. 

But, this is where the fun and creativity comes in! 

There are practiced and documented principles for making antennas; and, in general, (especially when learning), it's important to follow them. However, radio is a huge hobby that spans an almost infinite spectrum of expertise. So, there's plenty of room to experiment! 

Just speaking for my own radio club, the Portage County Amateur Radio Service, I've been introduced to a feast of Antenna designs made by local amateurs. For example: I got to assist in the construction of a J-pole-style antenna using all recycled materials. I am also learning how to construct a Quadrifilar Helix (QFH) antenna, with just PVC piping, copper wire, and other supplies that I can get at a hardware store. In the past I have use my UHF VHF antenna to receive satellite signals, but it's not specifically designed for that use, so I often have distortions in the images and data I retrieve for orbiting satellites. The QFH style antenna is designed to pick up signals from objects moving overhead from any direction. So, not only does it look really cool, it's also designed for better performance at that one particular task. 

A QFH (Quadrifilar Helix Antenna)

Antenna design leaves a lot of room for creativity. There are established  designs we follow when telecommunication is critical. However, as amateurs, we get to experiment too. I can create one super interesting looking antenna specifically built to contact NOAA weather satellites, and talk to my friend whose studying abroad in Italy. I can try out pre-tested designs or even try to design my own. Newly available meters such as SWR meters, and network analyzers, like my NanoVNA, make it easy to run field tests to make sure my design works. And radio equipment such as antenna tuners make it easier to transmit and receive multiple modes and bands on antennas not necessarily specifically designed to use them. This offers more flexibility when designing or considering new antennas. We have the option to make the perfect antenna for a specific purpose, or create an antenna, like the two I have, which comprise between serving a specific purpose perfectly, and serving multiple purposes well enough.   

There's no one antenna that will suit all radio needs, so HAM's often end up building and collecting many different models of antenna. They even use their expertise in wave propagation, to invent new styles of antenna! Which is why I find Antenna design to be one of the more creative aspects of amateur radio

Digital Radio: How to create your own Internet

Yes. You’re hearing me, right. I bought a Yaesu transceiver, a cheap Lenovo ThinkPad laptop, and some cables. Then I created my own Internet.

I can use my radio, a Yaesu FT-891 transceiver, and my Windows 11 laptop to build my own Internet. You probably have your own internet, it’s how you’re reading my article now! However, you are probably relying on a service provider and an electric provider to give you access to the Internet. You can contact your friends or loved ones overseas, but only because you pay a fee to the cell phone and Internet company.

 

What if I told you, you could communicate with the world without an internet service provider?

 

You can! And it’s a big reason I got into HAM radio. I can not only get on my microphone and talk with people all over the world; I can actually send them texts and files -with no internet service provider (ISP) needed.

 

Most of us “HAMs” use a system called “FT8” and an application called “WSJT-X” to send digital messages worldwide. FT8 is fantastic! We can see everyone who is active around the world, and we can contact them immediately. FT8 was initially created in 2001 and re-released in 2017 by a HAM radio operator named Joe Tayor (K1JT). FT8 uses 8 audible tones to transcribe small text messages into radio waves. So, using FT8, I’m able to send messages across the world using only a battery-powered laptop and radio. It’s like having a SMS/text message service without ever having to pay!

 

FT8 not only uses audible tones, but also employs error corrections, so that distortions in the transmission don’t create errors in the received message. Additionally, FT8 only uses 50 Hz, a very small portion of the available broadcast band. So, a lot of people can use FT8 at once without any service disruption. It’s also more efficient. I can spend all day talking on my radio’s microphone using 100 watts, and I won’t get to hear to anyone. With FT8, I can get a contact in Italy using only 15 watts!

 

FT8 is a data stream just like your WiFi network or the data you receive cell phone service on. But, it’s totally free and uses the radio spectrum bands the Federal Communications Commission (FCC), has deemed FREE for amateur use. It’s like a more complex version of Morse code. Various tones are sent out via a radio and antenna, and are then transcribed by a receiving “station”, another person with a radio and a laptop with WSJT-X.

 

I’m not a computer scientist, so I can’t get into the details of how FT8 works. However, Thomas Brooks (KE1R) wrote an excellent article for QST Magazine explaining how the tone and error correction work. If you know as much as Tom, you’ll be set for life, because digital communication, whether it be via HAM radio, online, or on our cell phones, is critically important to our communications infrastructure.  Without it, how could you call your mom and dad on the weekends, bet on the Cleveland Cavaliers to win another NBA game, or post a good looking selfie to Instagram?

 

Fundamentally, those phones and systems we use are just like HAM radio and FT8. They’re more complex and private (encrypted), sure. But they basically use the same tech that we HAM’s use to talk on FT8. So, using digital modes like FT8 is not only a fun hobby, it teaches us how all digital communications work. Who knows, maybe the power and internet will go out and we’ll need HAM radio and FT8 to communicate? It’s happened before.

Fabrication Lab: Perfecting the Craft

Between ice hockey, Lego's, portable radio operations and my job at The University of Chicago that makes all this possible, you may have forgotten that I maintain a 3D printing hobby. I have a whole section of my blog, "Fabrication Lab" dedicated to it. So, I thought I'd write a post returning to my 3D printing hobby. 

My latest adventure in 3D printing was not so much about the models and prints themselves, but fine-tuning my printer. I had a problem, a small problem, but a problem none-the-less: My prints had lines in them. They printed successfully, but they were imperfect. They had lines of filament that were skipped, meaning that there were visible imperfections in the final product. 

The top two boats have "lines". The bottom one is perfect.

For weeks, I couldn't figure out the problem. I tried making a cool looking Tiki mug for my friend, but it kept coming out of the printer with lines. In other words, it wasn't as nice looking as it could have been. I finally gave my buddy his imperfect Tiki mug, and while he still loved it, I felt bad because I knew a Creality K1 Max should print better than the product I was able to give. And, if it were something more than a Tiki mug, I wouldn't want flaws in the filament layout... especially if it was a load-baring object. 

I took some time over winter break to experiment with my printer. I didn't know what was causing the lines (imperfections). I tired adjusting a number of variables: I used different filaments (from PLA to ABS) , I tried heating the build plate (from 50 degrees Celsius to 80, and then to 100 degrees), and I also replaced the 0.4 millimeter nozzle on my K1 Max. Nothing helped, regardless of the temperature or settings I adjusted, the prints were coming out imperfect.        

The nice thing about having a Creality printer, though, is that they have an open-sourced plan, with easily replaceable parts. I was at my wits' end, and I didn't want to cut open a $1,000 dollar machine and risk breaking it... But what good is a printer that can't print perfectly? 

I logged on to YouTube, and watched some helpful tutorials on how to replace the extruder for the K1 Max. It turns out, it was easier than I thought. You need to be very careful to keep each piece, and document the deconstruction so you know how to put it all back together. However, outside of that, it's basically just a matter of following directions. 

When I dissembled the extruder, I found the problem. The gears that pull the filament into the heater and then lay them onto the build plate had a flaw. Some of the claws in the gears were worn down. I believe it happened when I used a metal wire to force out a filament clog. I fixed the clog, but in doing so I damaged the gears. Each time the gears and filament met at the damaged part, the K1 stopped extruding. It still made the full prints, but those prints had visible lines where the material was not laid down. Those tiny imperfections in the extruder gears led to tiny imperfections in the final prints.        

Luckily, I had a Creatily printer which (at least for now) supports tons of parts, modifications, and third-party enhancements. I bought myself a completely new extruder with good gears for 26 dollars on Amazon. There were plenty of YouTube videos to help me complete the installation, and it was mostly painless. 

The most important thing is that I was able to get my K1 Max (which I have a lot of money invested in) printing perfectly again. All it took was a replacement part costing 26 dollars, and some workshop tools like a screw driver.      

The Creality K1 Max

All in all, it ended up being a fun and engaging experience. While I would've wished my K1 kept printing perfectly without any repair needed, it didn't. I used the opportunity to figure out how to repair her! 

It did cost a little bit of money, but 26 bucks is nothing compared to buying a whole new printer: a K1 or any other brand. I also believe this speaks to Creality's commitment to the "open-source" model. Creality printers let us users use any software we'd like, and open their own equipment up to third-party replacement parts. So, us consumers can keep our equipment, design our prints, and (importantly) repair our own machines at a reasonable cost, with Creality parts or with third-party parts. 

MicroSwiss, for example, is an excellent third party part-maker for 3D printing. And they have parts that work with both my Ender 3 and K1 Max. While Creality provides quality replacement parts themselves, I'm glad their machines are compatible with other firms' products. It's truly good for the industry, and for hobbyists like myself!    

My Yaesu FT-891 Modular Rig Set-up

The radio

The Modular "Cubbyhole" rig

As a rookie member of the amateur radio community, and recent technician licensee, I’ve been looking to move forward in the hobby. Having contested with the PCARS/K8BF crew, I knew there was more fun ahead by investing in an HF transceiver and equipment.

 

I mastered two meters well before I even moved to Ohio and joined PCARS, so I know the real fun is in HF. I’ve had the opportunity to contest on SSB for many bands outside of my license permissions with PCARS, and I’m hooked! Not only that, but I’ve received a lot of good advice from the club members. So, the question was what HF radio to get?

 

I love the ICOM IC-7300 radios available at our club site, and I got plenty of suggestions online and from club members. However, I couldn’t find too many decent trustworthy used options with the capabilities of the ICOM IC-7300. Not only that, but the bulky frame of what I consider to be a base station transceiver takes up too much space for me. I’d like an HF radio that I can use at home, then throw in a backpack for a POTA activation on short notice. Additionally, I’d like something I can take easily with me to a new home or apartment if I decide to move.

 

My solution was the Yaesu FT-891. It’s compact, well regarded and it retails new for about $800. I couldn’t find a decent used ICOM or Yaesu for less than $600, so I figured I’d buy it new direct from the manufacturer. I follow numerous DX’ers and POTA adventurers on social media, and the FT-891 was a popular choice for portable operating, especially in the UK and Europe, so I was confident in the decision. 

End-Fed 10m Antenna

I was not disappointed. When I opened the package and set up the little rig, the settings and capabilities of the Yaesu seem to rival a larger, more-expensive, base station. It offers SSB, digital modes with CAT control, RTTY and CW, an easy menu for selecting power output and various settings -which can be saved specifically for each mode- internal tuning, noise control options, and a variety of other features. Its only drawbacks, in my mind, are that it doesn’t offer a very good scope for waterfall visuals -which can make viewing band activity difficult on a slow day-, and it does not offer UHF and VHF -which is fine for me because I have my ICOM IC-2730, which handles UHF and VHF very well for me already.

 

In about a day, I had strung up an end-fed half-wave 10 meter antenna with a 9:1 balun, and made my first SSB contact on my own rig in the UK with only 40 watts! I could hear my counterpart great, and he reported hearing me at about 57 out 59 (pretty good) in southern England. So, the FT-891 works like a charm for my needs.

 

The modular set-up

 

Earlier, I mentioned I wanted a somewhat compact rig set-up -a hybrid base station that can easily be used for portable operations when needed and wouldn’t be too much of a hassle to take with me if I move soon. So, I came up with a modular design. I bought these little metal desk-sized shelving risers from Amazon and created a four-slot “cubbyhole” shelf for the rig. On the left side, I have my VHF/UHF unit with the ICOM IC-2730 as well as my Uniden digital scanner. On the right I have my HF unit with the Yaesu FT-891, an LDG antenna tuner, Signalink box, and SWR/power meter. Each side has its own DC power supply, so even if I pull out the FT-891 and use it elsewhere, my tried-and-true UHF/VHF set-up is still operational.

 

In the back, I’ve cut and crimped all the wiring to exactly the lengths I need and also saved some pre-cut jumpers for when I need to change locations or re-organize. Each rig has its own antenna system, with grounds for both lightning-arresting and electronic noise reduction. So, again, the idea is that each “unit”, the Scanner unit, the UHF/VHF unit and the HF unit can all be pulled, taken away, and plugged back in when needed.

 

To the right of my rig, I’ve got my laptop which is obviously portable in-itself; but, it fills one important gap in my existing set-up: I use an RTL-SDR.COM V4 USB dongle along with SDR ++ to get a visual waterfall of the HF bands while using the transceiver. This makes up for the small display on the Yaesu FT-891 as well as the built-in scope, which leave a lot to be desired. So, the SDR dongle and laptop really add-in the features of a more robust base-station. I also use the laptop for digital modes on the F-891 such at FT8, and for stand-alone SDR projects, like connecting to NOAA satellites and home-made air-traffic control.  

 

3D-printed storage drawers

Lastly, a small feature, that I’m proud of none-the-less, are the three 3D-printed drawers I built to fit right into the gaps remaining in the shelving. They fit all the adapters, USB cables, and little pieces of hardware all HAM’s need to have around. Having lived in city apartments for almost 15 years, I’ve learned to really appreciate space and storage management, and if I keep going to HAM fests, I’m going to need it!